Food and Wine Pairing: Torta di Nocciole e Moscato D’Asti
THE WINE
What grows together, goes together
While it may sound cliché, there's often truth in this adage. Moscato, an aromatic white grape variety, thrives globally but has achieved renown in Piedmont, particularly under the slightly effervescent and consistently sweet Moscato d’Asti DOCG classification. This delightful wine is designed for leisurely sipping alongside Piedmontese desserts, yet it possesses the versatility to stand alone as a dessert in its own right.
Moscato d’Asti utilizes an interesting method of production called the “Asti Method” where the one and only fermentation is stopped by way of chilling, thus retaining some of the natural grape sugars in the ferment, and capturing a small amount of CO2 along the way. The Napa Valley Wine Academy outlines the process nicely here.
What to expect from Moscato d’Asti
The resulting wine is low in alcohol (4.5-5%), fruity, aromatic, and slightly sweet, making it a popular choice for those who enjoy easy-drinking and approachable sparkling wines.
The aromas/flavors are all about orange blossom, honey, sage, and rose petals, which are all typical of this grape that has a high proportion of three aromatic terpenes.
Why this pairing works
The slight effervescence and elevated acidity in Moscato d'Asti can provide a refreshing contrast to the dense and creamy texture of the hazelnut torte.
About the producer
Paolo Saracco stands as a prominent figure among Moscato d’Asti producers, drawing focus to the elegance of this wine style. Located in the “grand cru” subzones of Canelli and Santo Stefano Belbo, this wine has a serious focus. While some may dismiss Moscato as "pedestrian," I assure you, this is a wine of significant merit. In truth, everyone who tastes it becomes enamored with its distinct appeal and aromatic allure.
Other notable Moscato d’Asti producers:
While there is no lack of Moscato d’Asti wines in the market, these are worth seeking out as an alternative to the above:
Michele Chiarlo “Nivole” Moscato d’Asti docg
La Spinetta “Bricco Quaglio” Moscato d’Asti docg
Ca d’ Gal “Lumine” Moscato d’Asti docg
Massolino Moscato d’Asti docg
THE CAKE
Piedmont is famous for hazelnuts. Overshadowed by the wines of the region, Tonda Gentile Trilobata hazelnuts, or nocciole in Italian, is a staple on dishes from savory to sweet. From baci di dama cookies, apple-hazelnut crostata, to the famous torta di nocciole.
During the holidays, bakeries pile up hazelnut tortes wrapped in cellophane and a decorative ribbon. It was the dessert to get on the go when going to a party, specially if you have forgotten to pre-order your panettone.
I found this recipe years ago in the book Savoring Italy, by Michele Scicolone.
2 cups (10oz) hazelnuts
1 1/4 cup (10oz) sugar
1/3 cup (2 oz) all-purpose flour
8 egg whites
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
-Set oven temperature at 350F (180C).
-Butter and flour a 9” springform pan.
-Pulverize the hazelnuts and half of the sugar in a food processor. Add the flour and pulse one more time to blend. Transfer to a large bowl
-Whip the egg whites with the salt on medium speed until foamy. Increase the speed and slowly add the remaining half of the sugar and whip until soft peaks form. Blend in the vanilla extract.
-Fold in gently one third of the whipped egg whites into the nut mixture with a spatula. Carefully fold in the remaining of the egg whites to form a soft cloud.
-Pour it into the prepared baking pan and bake for 45-55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let it cool before unmolding.